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Fondue may feel retro, but sharing a pot of hot, melted cheese is timeless

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A Lee Enterprises, Incorporated newspaper. Majority shareholder: David Hoffmann, Hoffmann Media Group.

Fondue may feel retro, but sharing a pot of hot, melted cheese is timeless

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Did fondue ever really go away?

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CLASSIC SWISS FONDUE

Here is a simple, no-frills fondue that is cozy and comforting. This recipe, cribbed from a recipe in The Washington Post archives from 1979, is very much like what you might find served in Switzerland. It uses two typical Swiss cheeses, Emmentaler and Gruyere, but you can experiment with your favorite types. Just try to stay away from anything too hard (Parmigiano-Reggiano, cheddar), and if you prefer softer or bolder varieties (brie, blue), use them as accents at the end.

To be the most accessible, we've written this recipe for a Dutch oven. If you have a fondue pot, use it instead.

We found potato starch made for an especially effective thickener that gave the smoothest fondue; you can substitute all-purpose flour.

Cubes of bread are the classic accompaniment, but you can try whatever dippers you like, including boiled potatoes and roasted Brussels sprouts.

Makes 4 to 6 servings

8 ounces Emmentaler cheese, shredded or cut into ¼-inch dice

8 ounces Gruyere cheese, shredded or cut into ¼-inch dice

1 tablespoon potato starch

2 cloves garlic, one cut in half and one minced

2 cups dry white wine, such as pinot grigio, riesling or sauvignon blanc, plus more as needed

3 to 4 tablespoons kirsch

½ teaspoon paprika

Pinch freshly grated nutmeg

Freshly ground black pepper

1. In a medium bowl, toss the cheeses with the potato starch until the cheese is evenly coated.

2. Rub the halved garlic all around the inside of an enameled Dutch oven (or fondue pot). Add the wine and bring it to almost a boil over medium heat. You should see some bubbles breaking the surface. Gradually add the cheese to the pot, stirring constantly with a spatula or wooden spoon. Continue stirring until the cheese is thoroughly melted and the mixture is smooth.

3. Stir in 3 tablespoon kirsch, the minced garlic, paprika, nutmeg and freshly ground black pepper (to taste). Continue stirring the mixture until it just starts to simmer and thickens. If you dip a piece of bread into the fondue, the cheese should coat it. If you find the mixture is too thick at this point, stir in the additional tablespoon of kirsch and/or additional wine.

4. Reduce the heat to low and serve, encouraging people to stir and scrape the bottom as they dip into the fondue. (Alternately, if you have a fondue set, place the fondue pot over its heat source.) As time goes on, the fondue will thicken, so you may need to fiddle with the heat, occasionally increasing it and/or adding more wine to maintain a fluid consistency, as desired.

Nutrition per serving (based on 6 servings): Calories : 380; Total Fat: 23 g; Saturated Fat: 13 g; Sodium: 350 mg; Carbohydrates: 5 g; Dietary Fiber: 0 g; Sugars: 0 g; Protein: 22 g.

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