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If traditional barbecue dies, part of North Carolina dies with it
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A Lee Enterprises, Incorporated newspaper. Majority shareholder: David Hoffmann, Hoffmann Media Group.
If traditional barbecue dies, part of North Carolina dies with it
- By Jim Shahin Special to The Washington Post
- Oct 7, 2015
- Oct 7, 2015
- 0
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Customers come to Lexington Barbecue for the chopped pork and down-home country atmosphere. Some say traditional, wood-cooked pork is becoming rarer.
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Barbecue basics
Barbecue: Pork, period. Whole hog in eastern North Carolina, pork shoulder in the Piedmont.
Brown or outside brown: Exterior crunchy bits.
Dip: A thin vinegar-pepper sauce with ketchup or tomatoes in it, used in the Lexington style. Ranges from sweet to piquant.
Eastern style: Whole hog, usually finely chopped, seasoned just before serving with a thin vinegar-pepper sauce.
Plate: An expansion of the tray that includes barbecue, slaw on the side, either corn bread or hush puppies, and typically a side dish, such as Brunswick stew or french fries.
Sandwich: Barbecue on a hamburger bun, typically with slaw on the meat.
Lexington style, Piedmont style: Pork shoulder, generally coarsely chopped or sliced into chunks, and seasoned with dip.
Red slaw: Coleslaw that uses dip or ketchup as part of the dressing.
Tray: A small paper container with the meat on one side and slaw on the other, often with hush puppies.
Barbecue restaurants
Unless otherwise noted, all restaurants cook over hardwood embers.
Bum's Restaurant: 566 Third St., Ayden. (252) 746-6880. www.bumsrestaurant.com. Cafeteria-style diner. Get the mild-flavored chopped whole-hog sandwich and banana pudding.
Skylight Inn BBQ: 4618 S. Lee St., Ayden. (252) 746-4113. www.skylightinnbbq.com. A James Beard American Classic. Get the tray: cabbage-only coleslaw, dense corn bread and lightly dressed, finely chopped whole hog with crispy skin mixed in; also get a slaw-topped sandwich on a hamburger bun.
Wilber's Barbecue: 4172 Hwy. 70 E., Goldsboro. 919-778-5218. www.wilbersbarbecue.com. Visited by presidents George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton. Get the plate: moist, coarsely chopped whole hog, coleslaw, hush puppies, Brunswick stew.
Grady's BBQ: 3096 Arrington Bridge Rd., Dudley. 919-735-7243. Tiny legend in the eastern countryside. Get the zesty, skin-studded, chopped whole hog, fried chicken, house-made collards, butter beans and sweet potato pie.
The Pit Authentic Barbecue, 321 W. Geer St., Durham, 919-282-3748; 328 W. Davie St., Raleigh, 919-890-4500. www.thepit-raleigh.com. Modern. Whole hog, sauce-glazed baby back ribs, beef brisket. Crispy chicken livers, kale salad and more. Get the pit-smoked wings and chopped pork.
Allen & Son Barbeque: 6201 Millhouse Rd., Chapel Hill. 919-942-7576. East meets West. Get the coarsely chopped, mocha-colored Piedmont-style shoulder doused with a spirited version of eastern-style vinegar-pepper sauce; and the house-made ice cream.
The Pig: 630 Weaver Dairy Rd., Chapel Hill 919-942-1133. thepigrestaurant.com. Post-modern. Country-fried tofu, barbecued tempeh, shiitake po' boy; and pan-regional: beef brisket (Texas) and gumbo (New Orleans). The barbecue? Whole hog.
Hillsborough BBQ Company: 236 S. Nash St., Hillsborough, 919-732-4647. hillsboroughbbq.com. Ecumenical. Three slaws - eastern (creamy), Lexington (red) and mustard-based (yellow) - along with catfish, pork ribs and beef brisket. Get the chopped pork shoulder, smoky from smoldering hardwood.
Stamey's
2206 W. Gate City Blvd.,
336-299-9888
2812 Battleground Ave.
336-288-9275
Greensboro
stameys.com
Piedmont institution going back to 1930. Get the sliced shoulder, a flavorful mound of crispy-skinned slabs of juicy meat. Don't pass up the blackberry cobbler.
Lexington Barbecue
100 Smokehouse Lane, Lexington
336-249-9814
Classic Piedmont style. Get the coarse and sliced pork shoulder (yes, both) and the top-notch hush puppies.
Red Bridges Barbecue Lodge
2000 E. Dixon Blvd., Shelby
704-482-8567 www.bridgesbbq.com
Three generations of family operation. Get the piled-high chopped pork sandwich (with slaw, of course), and don't miss the pimento cheese sandwich.
12 Bones Smokehouse
5 Riverside Dr., Asheville
828-253-4499
3678 Sweeten Creek Rd., Arden
828-687-1395
Anything goes. Get an Obama fave, the don't-knock-it-till-you've-tried-it blueberry-chipotle-sauced pork ribs. Also, the jalapeño cheese grits, corn pudding and smoked potato salad. Uses a wood-enhanced oven.
Buxton Hall
32 Banks Ave., Asheville
828-232-7216
Neo-traditional. Pasture-raised whole hog. Sides from the chef's South Carolina childhood: hash and rice, chicken bog.
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Related to this story
Cindy Loman: I married into a barbecue family
I first heard about today’s big Washington Post spread on North Carolina barbecue from my father-in-law.
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IrelandUruguay, Eastern Republic ofUzbekistanVanuatuVenezuela, Bolivarian Republic ofViet Nam, Socialist Republic ofWallis and Futuna IslandsWestern SaharaYemenZambia, Republic ofZimbabwe
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United States of AmericaUS Virgin IslandsUnited States Minor Outlying IslandsCanadaMexico, United Mexican StatesBahamas, Commonwealth of theCuba, Republic ofDominican RepublicHaiti, Republic ofJamaicaAfghanistanAlbania, People's Socialist Republic ofAlgeria, People's Democratic Republic ofAmerican SamoaAndorra, Principality ofAngola, Republic ofAnguillaAntarctica (the territory South of 60 deg S)Antigua and BarbudaArgentina, Argentine RepublicArmeniaArubaAustralia, Commonwealth ofAustria, Republic ofAzerbaijan, Republic ofBahrain, Kingdom ofBangladesh, People's Republic ofBarbadosBelarusBelgium, Kingdom ofBelizeBenin, People's Republic ofBermudaBhutan, Kingdom ofBolivia, Republic ofBosnia and HerzegovinaBotswana, Republic ofBouvet Island (Bouvetoya)Brazil, Federative Republic ofBritish Indian Ocean Territory (Chagos Archipelago)British Virgin IslandsBrunei DarussalamBulgaria, People's Republic ofBurkina FasoBurundi, Republic ofCambodia, Kingdom ofCameroon, United Republic ofCape Verde, Republic ofCayman IslandsCentral African RepublicChad, Republic ofChile, Republic ofChina, People's Republic ofChristmas IslandCocos (Keeling) IslandsColombia, Republic ofComoros, Union of theCongo, Democratic Republic ofCongo, People's Republic ofCook IslandsCosta Rica, Republic ofCote D'Ivoire, Ivory Coast, Republic of theCyprus, Republic ofCzech RepublicDenmark, Kingdom ofDjibouti, Republic ofDominica, Commonwealth ofEcuador, Republic ofEgypt, Arab Republic ofEl Salvador, Republic ofEquatorial Guinea, Republic ofEritreaEstoniaEthiopiaFaeroe IslandsFalkland Islands (Malvinas)Fiji, Republic of the Fiji IslandsFinland, Republic ofFrance, French RepublicFrench GuianaFrench PolynesiaFrench Southern TerritoriesGabon, Gabonese RepublicGambia, Republic of theGeorgiaGermanyGhana, Republic ofGibraltarGreece, Hellenic RepublicGreenlandGrenadaGuadaloupeGuamGuatemala, Republic ofGuinea, Revolutionary People's Rep'c ofGuinea-Bissau, Republic ofGuyana, Republic ofHeard and McDonald IslandsHoly See (Vatican City State)Honduras, Republic ofHong Kong, Special Administrative Region of ChinaHrvatska (Croatia)Hungary, Hungarian People's RepublicIceland, Republic ofIndia, Republic ofIndonesia, Republic ofIran, Islamic Republic ofIraq, Republic ofIrelandIsrael, State ofItaly, Italian RepublicJapanJordan, Hashemite Kingdom ofKazakhstan, Republic ofKenya, Republic ofKiribati, Republic ofKorea, Democratic People's Republic ofKorea, Republic ofKuwait, State ofKyrgyz RepublicLao People's Democratic RepublicLatviaLebanon, Lebanese RepublicLesotho, Kingdom ofLiberia, Republic ofLibyan Arab JamahiriyaLiechtenstein, Principality ofLithuaniaLuxembourg, Grand Duchy ofMacao, Special Administrative Region of ChinaMacedonia, the former Yugoslav Republic ofMadagascar, Republic ofMalawi, Republic ofMalaysiaMaldives, Republic ofMali, Republic ofMalta, Republic ofMarshall IslandsMartiniqueMauritania, Islamic Republic ofMauritiusMayotteMicronesia, Federated States ofMoldova, Republic ofMonaco, Principality ofMongolia, Mongolian People's RepublicMontserratMorocco, Kingdom ofMozambique, People's Republic ofMyanmarNamibiaNauru, Republic ofNepal, Kingdom ofNetherlands AntillesNetherlands, Kingdom of theNew CaledoniaNew ZealandNicaragua, Republic ofNiger, Republic of theNigeria, Federal Republic ofNiue, Republic ofNorfolk IslandNorthern Mariana IslandsNorway, Kingdom ofOman, Sultanate ofPakistan, Islamic Republic ofPalauPalestinian Territory, OccupiedPanama, Republic ofPapua New GuineaParaguay, Republic ofPeru, Republic ofPhilippines, Republic of thePitcairn IslandPoland, Polish People's RepublicPortugal, Portuguese RepublicPuerto RicoQatar, State ofReunionRomania, Socialist Republic ofRussian FederationRwanda, Rwandese RepublicSamoa, Independent State ofSan Marino, Republic ofSao Tome and Principe, Democratic Republic ofSaudi Arabia, Kingdom ofSenegal, Republic ofSerbia and MontenegroSeychelles, Republic ofSierra Leone, Republic ofSingapore, Republic ofSlovakia (Slovak Republic)SloveniaSolomon IslandsSomalia, Somali RepublicSouth Africa, Republic ofSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich IslandsSpain, Spanish StateSri Lanka, Democratic Socialist Republic ofSt. HelenaSt. Kitts and NevisSt. LuciaSt. Pierre and MiquelonSt. Vincent and the GrenadinesSudan, Democratic Republic of theSuriname, Republic ofSvalbard & Jan Mayen IslandsSwaziland, Kingdom ofSweden, Kingdom ofSwitzerland, Swiss ConfederationSyrian Arab RepublicTaiwan, Province of ChinaTajikistanTanzania, United Republic ofThailand, Kingdom ofTimor-Leste, Democratic Republic ofTogo, Togolese RepublicTokelau (Tokelau Islands)Tonga, Kingdom ofTrinidad and Tobago, Republic ofTunisia, Republic ofTurkey, Republic ofTurkmenistanTurks and Caicos IslandsTuvaluUganda, Republic ofUkraineUnited Arab EmiratesUnited Kingdom of Great Britain & N. IrelandUruguay, Eastern Republic ofUzbekistanVanuatuVenezuela, Bolivarian Republic ofViet Nam, Socialist Republic ofWallis and Futuna IslandsWestern SaharaYemenZambia, Republic ofZimbabwe
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