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Perfectly easy pork for Easter

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A Lee Enterprises, Incorporated newspaper. Majority shareholder: David Hoffmann, Hoffmann Media Group.

Perfectly easy pork for Easter

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Like many, we traditionally serve ham on Easter Sunday. Once upon a time, my grandfather cured and smoked his own hams, harvested in the fall from the family farm. By spring, the ham proved perfectly ready for our large family to enjoy.

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SIMPLE SEARED PORK CHOPS

You can make any number of chops with this method, just be sure the chops are in a single, uncrowded layer in the pan. The salt mixture here is sufficient for four chops. Leftover pork tastes great thinly sliced on a sandwich or in a green salad.

Time: 10 minutes (prepare time) and 10 minutes (cook time)

Makes: 2 to 4 servings

Ingredients:

2 to 4 bone-in, center-cut pork loin chops, each 1-inch thick and weighing 8 ounces

1½ teaspoons kosher salt or 1 teaspoon fine sea salt

1½ teaspoons sweet paprika

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon granulated garlic

1 tablespoon expeller pressed canola oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil or peanut oil

Cherry-balsamic gastrique or Creamy baby bella sauce, optional, see recipes

Sliced green onions, for garnish

Instructions:

Pat chops dry and place on a plate. In a small dish mix together 1 ½ teaspoons each kosher salt and sweet paprika along with ½ teaspoon each black pepper and granulated garlic. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over all sides of the pork chops. Cover chops loosely. If desired, refrigerate for several hours (up to 8 hours).

Heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit convection or 425 degrees Fahrenheit conventional. While the oven heats, let chops come to room temperature if necessary.

Heat a well-seasoned cast-iron skillet, griddle or ovenproof nonstick skillet over medium heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Swirl oil in pan. Use tongs to add chops (in a single, uncrowded layer). Let cook, without turning, until deeply golden on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Flip chops and immediately slide the pan into the hot oven. Cook, without turning, until center of chop is slightly firm (but not hard) when pressed or 145 degrees Fahrenheit on an instant-read thermometer, 5 to 6 minutes. Remove from the oven to a plate; tent with foil to keep warm while you reheat the sauce.

Serve chops topped with a spoonful of your chosen sauce. Garnish with sliced green onions.

BUTTERFLIED PORK TENDERLOIN

If you chose not to butterfly the pork tenderloin, simply marinate it whole in the refrigerator for several hours. Roast the whole tenderloin at 400 degrees Fahrenheit for 15 to 20 minutes; the internal temperature should be about 145 degrees Fahrenheit. Let rest 5 minutes before slicing.

Time: 14 minutes (prepare time) and 5 minutes (cook time)

Makes: 3 to 4 servings

Ingredients:

1 pork tenderloin, about 1 to 1 ¼ pounds

¼ cup unfiltered cider vinegar or red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons olive oil

½ teaspoon each salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ teaspoon finely chopped rosemary or thyme leaves

Cherry balsamic gastrique or Creamy baby bella sauce, optional, see recipes

Fresh rosemary or thyme sprigs, for garnish

Instructions:

Trim and butterfly the pork tenderloin as follows: Use a sharp knife to remove all the silver skin from outside of the tenderloin. Then cut the tenderloin lengthwise down the middle making an incision about 1 inch deep. Use clean hands to open the cut like a book. Then make a lengthwise incision about ½ inch deep on either side of the first cut. Again, open the tenderloin like a book or unfolding a letter. Place a piece of plastic wrap over the meat and use a meat mallet to pound the tenderloin into a uniform 1/2-inch thickness.

In the bottom of a shallow dish, mix together ¼ cup cider vinegar, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and ½ teaspoon each salt, pepper and rosemary.

Put the pork tenderloin into the marinade. Turn to coat all sides. Let stand at room temperature about 30 minutes. Or, refrigerate loosely covered up to several hours.

Heat oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit convection or 425 degrees Fahrenheit conventional. While the oven heats, remove tenderloin from the fridge to come to room temperature if necessary.

To cook, heat a large ovenproof pan or well-seasoned cast-iron griddle or skillet over medium high heat until a drop of water sizzles on contact. Remove pork from marinade. Swirl remaining 1 tablespoon oil in pan, then add tenderloin. Cook 3 minutes without turning. Flip pork, then immediately transfer the pan to the hot oven. Cook until nearly firm when pressed with a finger or 145 degrees Fahrenheit on an instant-read thermometer, about 3 minutes.

Remove to a cutting board to rest for 5 minutes while you make or reheat the sauce of your choice. Thinly slice the meat. Serve with the sauce. Garnish with herbs.

CHERRY BALSAMIC GASTRIQUE

Look for frozen pitted cherries in the freezer case. Dried cherries, softened in warm water can be substituted, as can fresh cherries in season. This recipe also tastes great with fresh or frozen raspberries.

Time: 10 minutes (prepare time) and 10 minutes (cook time)

Makes: About 2 cups

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon each unsalted butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium-size red onion, halved, thinly sliced in wedges

3/4 cup dry red wine

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon minced fresh jalapeño or ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, optional

1½ to 2 cups (about 8 ounces) frozen pitted sweet or tart red cherries (or a combination), thawed

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, plus more to taste

½ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper or grains of paradise

Instructions: 

In a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon each butter and oil and swirl until butter is melted. Add 1 medium red onion, halved and sliced. Saute until soft and golden, about 5 minutes.

Stir in ¾ cup red wine and boil hard to reduce wine by half, about 2 minutes. Stir in 1 clove finely chopped garlic and 1 teaspoon minced jalapeño if using; cook 1 minute.

Stir in 2 cups of pitted cherries and simmer until cherries are soft, about 5 minutes. Stir in 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar and heat to a simmer. Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper. Taste and adjust with a little more vinegar if desired. Remove from heat.

Mixture can be covered and refrigerated up to 4 days. Serve warm.

CREAMY BABY BELLA SAUCE

Baby bella mushrooms, aka cremini mushrooms, are simply small-sized portabella mushrooms. Their darker color and deeper flavor taste great here, but button mushrooms work too. If you have access to morels, fresh or reconstituted dry, they add a superb flavor and texture as well.

Make your own dried porcini powder by pulverizing dried porcini mushrooms in a spice grinder or order it online from www.thespicehouse.com

Time: 10 minutes (prepare time) and 10 minutes (cook time)

Makes: About 1½ cups

Ingredients:

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ pound fresh baby bella or button mushrooms, thinly sliced

¼ cup dry white wine or vermouth

2 cloves garlic, very thinly sliced

4 or 6 fresh (or reconstituted dried) small morel mushrooms, halved, optional

1 tablespoon drained capers

½ teaspoon dried porcini powder, optional

½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary or ¼ teaspoon dried

Salt, freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup mascarpone or heavy (whipping) cream, plus more as needed

1 or 2 skinny green onions, trimmed, thinly sliced

Instructions:

Heat a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add 2 tablespoons butter and ½ pound sliced mushrooms. Saute until nicely golden, 3 to 4 minutes. Add ¼ cup dry white wine and simmer until the liquid is reduced by half.

Add 2 thinly sliced garlic cloves and cook 1 minute. Add 4 to 6 halved morel mushrooms if desired, 1 tablespoon drained capers, ½ teaspoon dried porcini powder and ½ teaspoon minced fresh rosemary (or ¼ teaspoon dried). Season with ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon fresh black pepper.

Swirl in ¼ cup mascarpone or heavy cream until heated through. Add green onions.

Cover and refrigerate up to several days. Reheat to serve, adding a little water (or more cream) to loosen the sauce as desired.

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