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Transform a store-bought croissant into something marvelous

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A Lee Enterprises, Incorporated newspaper. Majority shareholder: David Hoffmann, Hoffmann Media Group.

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Transform a store-bought croissant into something marvelous

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Somehow, I got it in my head that almond croissants were for kids; that grown-up connoisseurs would stick to the plain buttery crescents. And so I put away those sweeter childish things.

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Druckman is a New York food writer and cookbook author.

Sesame Croissants

Traditional frangipane is made with almond meal, sugar, butter and egg. The first three ingredients form a paste that the egg binds together. Sesame halva is not unlike that paste; beat it with an egg, and you get something that behaves a lot like frangipane, is even easier to make and, some might say, tastes better than the nut-based French cream. Here, we're calling it "sesapane."

Makes 4 servings

For the filling:

1 large egg

⅛ teaspoon salt

8 ounces best-quality halvah, crumbled

For the croissants:

½ cup water

¼ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons dark rum, amaretto or kirsch (optional)

4 croissants, preferably day-old (on the large side)

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

Confectioners' sugar, for dusting (optional)

1. For the filling (sesapane): Use a whisk to lightly beat the egg and salt in a mixing bowl. Add the halvah, bit by bit, whisking, until a thick pastelike spread forms.

2. For the croissants: Bring the water and granulated sugar to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring just until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, then stir the liquor, if using.

3. Starting at one side, use a serrated knife to cut each croissant in half horizontally, stopping just before you reach the other side, leaving that part uncut (as a hinge). Brush the inside of each croissant liberally with the syrup on both sides, making sure each side is completely saturated; use more syrup than you think is necessary. It might seem like a lot, but the finished croissants benefit from the moisture.

4. Smear the inside of each croissant with 2 tablespoons of the filling, arranging the croissants on the baking sheet as you work. Press each one down firmly. Divide the remaining sesapane over the top of each croissant and smear it over the top. Sprinkle some of the sesame seeds over each croissant, then bake (middle rack) for about 15 minutes, until the tops are golden brown.

5. Let cool for a few minutes, then sprinkle each filled sesame croissant with confectioners' sugar, if desired.

Nutrition per serving: 650 calories, 12 g protein, 52 g carbohydrates, 36 g fat, 10 g saturated fat, 75 mg cholesterol, 420 mg sodium, 4 g dietary fiber, 28 g sugar

From food writer and cookbook author Charlotte Druckman.

David Lebovitz's Croissants aux Amandes

Cookbook author David Lebovitz has tested this recipe at home in France, and while on book tour in the States. He has used croissants from Paris's best pastry shops and the ones from Costco. He has used fresh and frozen. His "general feeling is the messier, the better."

His advice: Don't be stingy when applying the frangipane and the syrup. Double the amount of each when you are dealing with large croissants. You also have his permission to shove chocolate chips, small pieces of banana or dried sour cherries in with the almond paste.

Make ahead: The almond-filled croissants are best served the same day they are made, either warm or at room temperature, but they can be kept in an airtight container overnight. Leftover frangipane can be used to line fruit tarts, and you can make it with hazelnuts (skip the almond extract, and try Frangelico in the syrup) or pistachios. The frangipane can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 1 week, or frozen for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 4 to 6 servings (depending on the croissants' size)

For the frangipane:

½ cup almond meal (also called almond flour)

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 large egg, at room temperature

3¼ tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature

A few drops pure almond extract

Pinch kosher salt

For the croissants:

½ cup water

¼ cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons dark rum, amaretto or kirsch (optional)

4 croissants, preferably day-old (see headnote)

4 to 6 tablespoons sliced almonds

Confectioners' sugar, for dusting (optional)

1. For the frangipane: Combine the almond meal, granulated sugar, egg, butter, almond extract and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer; beat on low speed until incorporated, then increase the speed to high and beat for 3 minutes, or until light and fluffy.

2. For the croissants: Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner.

3. Bring the water and granulated sugar to a boil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring just until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat, then stir the liquor, if using.

4. Starting at one side, use a serrated knife to cut each croissant in half horizontally, stopping just before you reach the other side, leaving that part uncut (as a hinge). Brush the inside of each croissant liberally with the syrup on both sides, making sure each side is completely saturated; use more syrup than you think is necessary. It might seem like a lot, but the finished croissants benefit from the moisture.

5. Smear the inside of each croissant with 2 tablespoons of the frangipane, arranging the croissants on the baking sheet as you work. Press each one down firmly. Divide the remaining frangipane over the top of each croissant and smear it over the top. Sprinkle each croissant with 1 tablespoon of the sliced almonds, then bake (middle rack) for about 15 minutes, until the tops are golden brown.

6. Let cool for a few minutes, then sprinkle each filled almond croissant with confectioners' sugar.

Nutrition per serving (based on 6): 330 calories, 6 g protein, 33 g carbohydrates, 20 g fat, 8 g saturated fat, 70 mg cholesterol, 180 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 21 g sugar

From cookbook author David Lebovitz.

Coffee Pastry Cream

The pastry cream could be flavored with jam, peanut butter, Nutella or matcha powder instead of coffee. You could fold in small pieces of fruit or cookie crumbs.

Make ahead: You will have about a cup of pastry cream left over, which can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Makes 24 servings (makes a generous 3 cups)

2 cups whole milk

Scrapings from 1 vanilla bean, plus the pod

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons cornstarch

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

6 large egg yolks

8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon coffee extract (may substitute strongly brewed/cooled espresso coffee)

1. Heat the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the vanilla bean scrapings and the pod. Remove the pot from the heat, cover it, and let the mixture cool and infuse for 20 minutes. Discard the pod and stir the milk to distribute the vanilla evenly.

2. Meanwhile, combine the sugar, cornstarch and salt in a medium bowl.

3. Place the egg yolks in a separate, larger bowl. Whisk in the sugar-cornstarch mixture until smooth and thoroughly incorporated. The mixture should be fluffy and pale.

4. Whisk a small amount of the still-warm, vanilla-infused milk into the egg yolk mixture; this is called tempering. Then, whisk that mixture into the saucepan of vanilla-infused milk. Place over medium heat; cook, whisking constantly, to form a thickened custard. A trail left by the whisk should hold.

5. Transfer to a large bowl; gradually add the cubes of cold butter to the custard, whisking constantly, until they are completely emulsified and the custard is glossy. This is your pastry cream.

6. Whisk in the coffee extract until well incorporated. Place a layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the cream. Refrigerate until well chilled before using.

Nutrition per 2-tablespoon serving: 90 calories, 1 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 25 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 6 g sugar

Adapted from pastry chef Becky Quan of NoMad in Las Vegas.

Coffee Crumble

Pastry chef Becky Quan created this topping to adorn her filled croissants, but we have found it has multiple applications, including the tops of banana bread and other quick breads, and on ice cream, yogurt and parfaits.

Make ahead: The crumble can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.

Makes 8 servings (makes enough for 8 croissants)

½ packed cup plus 1 tablespoon light brown sugar

1 cup flour

**4 tablespoons (**½ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

2 tablespoons instant espresso powder

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

2. Combine the brown sugar, flour and butter in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer; beat on low speed until blended, then add the salt and espresso powder. Increase the speed to medium, beating to form a coarse, crumbly mixture.

3. Spread the mixture out on the prepared baking sheet, using your hands to break up any remaining larger bits. Bake (middle rack) for 20 to 30 minutes total, rotating the pan and stirring the crumbs halfway through. Cool on the baking sheet.

4. Once the mixture is cool enough to handle, use your hands or a fork to break it up into crumbly chunks.

Nutrition per serving: 160 calories, 2 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 15 mg cholesterol, 35 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 14 g sugar

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IrelandUruguay, Eastern Republic ofUzbekistanVanuatuVenezuela, Bolivarian Republic ofViet Nam, Socialist Republic ofWallis and Futuna IslandsWestern SaharaYemenZambia, Republic ofZimbabwe

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