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From the editor: It doesn't have to be October to celebrate Oktoberfest

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From the editor

From the editor: It doesn't have to be October to celebrate Oktoberfest

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes (copy)

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes, executive editor, Greensboro News & Record and Winston-Salem Journal on June 17, 2025.

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Dimon Kendrick-Holmes

There's an old saying: "Every day is Christmas."  

That's also the title of a relatively new song by the Australian pop singer Sia, and even a movie starring the American pop singer Toni Braxton.

It's a nice sentiment, whether you mean it in the secular or spiritual sense.

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes and his son Robert prepare to tackle Bratwurst Vorspiese, a sausage appetizer at Waldhorn Restaurant in Pineville, N.C., on Robert's birthday in June of 2024. 

Bess Kendrick-Holmes

I have my own saying: "Every month is October."

Excuse me, Oktober.

That's because Bess and I lived in Germany for four years.

When I think of Oktoberfest, I think of the time my brother, who was a midshipmen at the Naval Academy, hopped a space-available flight to Deutschland for his spring break.

Over the next five or so days, Bess and I took him a lot of places, but our first stop was Zum Schützenhaus, a restaurant on an archery range in some woods outside Mannheim.

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It was our favorite restaurant near our apartment. Having grown up in the rural South, we felt right at home with the wood paneling and stuffed deer and boar heads and waitresses who called us honey and sugar, but in a different language. 

Here's the combination Oktoberfest/birthday party that Dimon Kendrick-Holmes and his children prepared for Bess in 2017 during the month of, yes, October. Note the careful product placement. 

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes

Oh, and the large quantities of beef and pork and potatoes and vegetables cooked in some kind of animal fat.

The Schützenhaus was known for its Schützenplatte, an enormous platter loaded with two Wienerschnitzels the size of hubcabs, along with two Jägerschnitzels and two Rumpsteaks mit Krauterbutter und Zwiebelrostbraten. And that was just the meat (and the butter and the onions). 

There were also huge piles of Pommes frites and Spätzle, the latter covered with some of the gravy from the Jägerschnitzel. And sprinkled around and in between all this food were peas and carrots that had been, you know, cooked in some kind of animal fat.

A gigantic schnitzel and other German specialties at Bavarian Chef in Madison, Virginia, near Shenandoah National Park.

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes

The menu suggested that all this food would serve two people, which was a joke. It also listed Black Forest ice cream as part of the platter, and that too was apparently a joke, because no one had ever gotten that far.

At least, not until that night.

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My brother and I were raised by parents who ran a summer camp with a dining hall that cooked excellent food in of course large quantities, and we'd often wage eating contests. He was two years younger than me but a big boy who would go on to play linebacker for Navy. I was skinny back then but had a hollow leg. 

We were both formidable eaters, and the Schützenhaus presented the opportunity for us to work together to accomplish something important. 

My brother and I tore into the Schützenplatte like wild dogs, while Bess methodically chipped away at a single portion of Schnitzel Cordon Bleu. We were laughing and pretending to fight over the last of each item on the platter, and washing it all down with thick Weizenbiers.

The other diners watched us and whispered among themselves. We began to scoop up peas and carrots with our spoons. The platter was clean. A man at the table next to us began to clap.

Bess put down her fork, and we divided what was left on her plate. All the food was gone. The whispers increased to a low roar.

The waitress brought us the bill. 

"Wait a minute," my brother said. "What about the ice cream?"

The people began to cheer. The waitress went to the kitchen and brought two small paper cartons of ice cream, along with those little wooden paddles you get in elementary school. The ice cream contained a bit of chocolate and maybe a fleck of cherry. To call it Black Forest was a stretch, but no matter. 

We polished it off. We were Schützenhaus legends.

It felt like October. It was March.  

And that's my point. Sure, North Carolina hosts some good Oktoberfests. There was one in Kernersville yesterday, and there's a couple more next week, in Hickory and Sugar Mountain, and maybe elsewhere.

But Oktoberfest is more a frame of mind, and it can be achieved with the right food and drink and the right people around you.

You can taste Oktoberfest any time at a solid German restaurant like Waldhorn in Pineville or Haus Heidelberg in Hendersonville.

I hear Bavarian Kitchen in Troutman is good. 

My kitchen is good too, when Bess is frying the schnitzel and baking the strudel, and I'm outside grilling the brats.

Got any favorite restaurants or recipes to share? 

Happy Oktober, whenever you happen to celebrate.

Prost!

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes is executive editor of the Winston-Salem Journal and Greensboro News & Record and North Carolina editor for Lee Enterprises. Contact him at dimon.kendrick-holmes@greensboro.com.

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Waldhorn Restaurant

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes and his son Robert prepare to tackle Bratwurst Vorspiese, a sausage appetizer at Waldhorn Restaurant in Pineville, N.C., on Robert's birthday in June of 2024. 

A gigantic schnitzel and other German specialties at Bavarian Chef in Madison, Virginia, near Shenandoah National Park.

Here's the combination Oktoberfest/birthday party that Dimon Kendrick-Holmes and his children prepared for Bess in 2017 during the month of, yes, October. Note the careful product placement. 

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes, executive editor, Greensboro News & Record and Winston-Salem Journal on June 17, 2025.

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