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Dimon Kendrick-Holmes: The perfect place to wreck your diet - and have fun doing it

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Dimon Kendrick-Holmes: The perfect place to wreck your diet - and have fun doing it

1 of 11

CT sallys clam.jpg

Bess and Dimon Kendrick-Holmes enjoy clam pizza at Sally's Apizza, which is often ranked among the best pizza joints in the country, if not the world. 

CT sallys sign.jpg

Dimon and Bess Kendrick-Holmes wait in line at Sally’s Apizza, about a block from Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana on Wooster Street in New Haven, Connecticut. Both pizza joints are considered by food experts to be among the best in the country.

This large pizza at Sally's Apizza in New Haven, Connecticut, is topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni and hot peppers. 

There's only one sandwich on the menu at Louis Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, and it's a hamburger cooked medium rare on toasted white bread with a grilled onion and a fresh tomato slice. You can add cheese and, by request, get it cooked well done or skip the onion or tomato. 

You can grab a Hobbit-sized table at Louis Lunch, if you're lucky. The joint claims to have invented the hamburger. 

With its staff of two, one taking orders and another cooking and preparing all the burgers, Louis Lunch cranks out hamburgers during lunch and dinner hours, and late into the night on weekends. 

The kitchen at Louis Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, features two iron ovens, which flame-grill hamburgers topped with an onion and locked into wire baskets, plus a carousel toaster and a vat of liquid cheese, all manned by one guy. The red sign warns customers not to try to reproduce the ovens without permission from the owners. 

The author heads into Louis Lunch, a New Haven restaurant that claims to have invented the hamburger, with his daughter and son-in-law. 

Stowes Seafood is a seafood shack along the beaches of West Haven, Connecticut.

The Treasure Chest is a family seafood dinner at Stowe's Seafood featuring fried shrimp, fried scallops, fired clam strips, two kinds of fried fish, a whole lot of French fries, and crab cakes that may or may not be fried. Pictured here with a couple of lobster rolls. 

We don't know for certain that the creation of Bart Simpson was inspired by this 6th-century bust from Japan, but you can see it anyway at the Yale University Art Gallery in New Haven, Connecticut. 

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One of my great gifts is knowing exactly when to temporarily abandon a diet plan.

I demonstrated this ability last weekend when Bess and I traveled to New Haven, Connecticut, to visit our daughter and her husband.

You may remember that we began the year resolved to shed an ambitious amount of weight before our son’s wedding, which is scheduled for late summer in the Outer Banks. Our elaborate plan involved blending morning smoothies, restricting carbs and engaging in daily, vigorous exercise.

Let’s just say the first two months didn’t go exactly according to plan, with me restricting exercise and engaging in daily, vigorous carb intake.

But I entered March with a renewed sense of commitment, vowing to follow our diet plan despite having already booked the short vacation to the Constitution State, which is also known as the “Land of Steady Habits.”

People are also reading…

I mean, they have smoothies and salads in the Land of Steady Habits, don’t they?

The answer is yes. But, as my daughter informed me, New Haven is also home to the best pizza in America, the birthplace of the hamburger and a landing spot for fresh seafood that tastes especially great when fried or drenched in melted butter or both.

How can you travel 600 miles to a place you’ve never visited before and not experience the best of what it has to offer?

You just can’t.

And so we put our diet on pause, and we ate.

We did other things too. We took nice long walks across the Yale campus, saw some beautiful old buildings and visited Yale’s stupendous rare book and manuscript library. It’s a massive four-sided, five-story bookcase encased in glass, with a staff of 140 people to fetch what you want.

We spent an afternoon in the world-class Yale University Art Gallery and saw a 6th-century piece of Japanese pottery that looked like Bart Simpson.

We toured the school where our daughter teaches first grade, drove out to a lighthouse, and hiked up to a point where we could see the whole city. We also relaxed and watched some March Madness.

Mostly, we enjoyed each other’s company, and what better way to do that than by sharing a great meal.

Or a lot of great meals.

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We ate hamburgers at Louis’ Lunch, a Hobbit-sized building that’s recognized by the Library of Congress as the birthplace of the hamburger and is one of the oldest, family-run businesses in America.

One guy prepares all the burgers, taking a blend of five cuts of fresh-ground meat, shaping it into patties, topping them with thick slices of onion and then clamping them into a wire basket, which he slides into one of two cast iron mini ovens. Meanwhile, he’s lining up white bread on a carousel toaster and checking the heat on a vat of liquid cheese.

There’s actually a sign behind the counter warning customers not to try to make their own version of the iron ovens without permission. Proprietary is the name of the game here: the ovens, the blend of meat, the toaster and probably even the mix of processed cheese, all one of a kind.

And we ate the entire Treasure Chest at Stowe’s, a waterfront seafood shack and market adorned with buoys, pirate flags and fishing nets.

The Treasure Chest is a massive family meal featuring fried shrimp, fried scallops, fried clam strips, two kinds of fried fish, a whole lot of French fries, and crab cakes that may or may not be fried. Oh, and cole slaw.

We also got a couple of lobster rolls, fresh and buttery and delicious.

And, best of all, we ate pizza at Sally’s.

According to experts, two of the three best pizza joints in America are a block apart on Wooster Street in New Haven: Sally’s Apizza and Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana. My daughter is partial to Sally’s, and I can now confirm that it’s the best pizza I’ve ever eaten in my life.

Like a lot of things that are the best, it’s hard to describe, but it has everything to do with the crust, which is packed with flavor. I searched “apizza” online and got a bunch of scientific stuff about high-gluten bromated flour and fermentation and a hydration factor approaching 70 percent.

Whatever. We waited in line on the sidewalk for about an hour, and then went inside where everybody was ripping into their pizzas like lions feasting on impalas on a National Geographic TV special.

We joined them. We tore into a clam pie, which arrived first, and then a tomato pie with pepperoni and hot peppers. In the back, guys were sliding pizzas into the ovens with a paddle that looked like it was 20-feet long. That’s how hot the oven was.

Again, I can’t explain it, but it was the best. It was smoky, charred and incredibly light.

It was so light that we had room for gelato and cannoli and linzertart cookies at Libby’s, the Italian pastry shop that just happened to be down the street.

Walking down Wooster Street that night, we felt blessed to be spending time with our daughter and son-in-law.

And blessed that they happened to live in one of the great food cities in America.

Now back to the diet.

+11 

Kendrick-Holmes

Dimon Kendrick-Holmes is North Carolina editor for Lee Enterprises. Contact him at dimon.kendrick-holmes@greensboro.com.

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CT sallys clam.jpg

Bess and Dimon Kendrick-Holmes enjoy clam pizza at Sally's Apizza, which is often ranked among the best pizza joints in the country, if not the world. 

Dimon and Bess Kendrick-Holmes wait in line at Sally’s Apizza, about a block from Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana on Wooster Street in New Haven, Connecticut. Both pizza joints are considered by food experts to be among the best in the country.

This large pizza at Sally's Apizza in New Haven, Connecticut, is topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, pepperoni and hot peppers. 

There's only one sandwich on the menu at Louis Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, and it's a hamburger cooked medium rare on toasted white bread with a grilled onion and a fresh tomato slice. You can add cheese and, by request, get it cooked well done or skip the onion or tomato. 

You can grab a Hobbit-sized table at Louis Lunch, if you're lucky. The joint claims to have invented the hamburger. 

With its staff of two, one taking orders and another cooking and preparing all the burgers, Louis Lunch cranks out hamburgers during lunch and dinner hours, and late into the night on weekends. 

The kitchen at Louis Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, features two iron ovens, which flame-grill hamburgers topped with an onion and locked into wire baskets, plus a carousel toaster and a vat of liquid cheese, all manned by one guy. The red sign warns customers not to try to reproduce the ovens without permission from the owners. 

The author heads into Louis Lunch, a New Haven restaurant that claims to have invented the hamburger, with his daughter and son-in-law. 

Stowes Seafood is a seafood shack along the beaches of West Haven, Connecticut.

The Treasure Chest is a family seafood dinner at Stowe's Seafood featuring fried shrimp, fried scallops, fired clam strips, two kinds of fried fish, a whole lot of French fries, and crab cakes that may or may not be fried. Pictured here with a couple of lobster rolls. 

We don't know for certain that the creation of Bart Simpson was inspired by this 6th-century bust from Japan, but you can see it anyway at the Yale University Art Gallery in New Haven, Connecticut. 

Kendrick-Holmes

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